When I first considered building a pitching mound, it was more out of necessity than anything else. As a passionate baseball coach and player, I knew the value of practice, and having a mound at home could drastically change the game for my trainees and me. The idea struck me during an offseason when local fields were less accessible, and commercial pitching mounds were just too pricey.
I remember scouring the internet and local stores, sticker shock making my head spin. The cost of a professional-grade mound could run into thousands, which was way out of my league. That's when I thought, "Why not build one myself?" After all, how hard could it be?
Plus, the thought of putting together something with my own hands that my players could benefit from was incredibly appealing. I wanted a mound that was portable, durable, and, most importantly, accurate to regulation specifications.
So, I set out on this DIY journey, armed with determination and a blueprint of what I needed. This project turned out to be a fantastic bonding activity with my family and players as we built something truly valuable together.
Through this section of the blog, I'll take you through the initial steps I took, the materials I gathered, and the plans I made to bring this pitching mound to life—all for under $200. Stick with me, and you’ll see just how manageable and rewarding this project can be.
Gathering the Goods: What You'll Need
Here’s a breakdown of everything I picked up, including a few items you might not immediately think of, but believe me, they’ll make your life a lot easier.
- Wood for the Frame and Slope:
- Three 2” x 10” x 10’ boards: These will form the main structure of the mound.
- One 2” x 10” x 8’ board: This will be used for the back and the internal supports.
- One 1” x 6” x 4’ board: Perfect for the toe board and additional bracing.
- Plywood for the Top Platform:
- One 1/2” x 4’ x 8’ sheet: This will cover the top where you’ll stand.
- One 1/2” x 4’ x 2’ sheet: Used for the pitching rubber placement.
- Support and Fastening Materials:
- Deck Screws (2 1/2" long): About 30 screws to hold the larger boards together.
- Wood Screws (1 1/2" long): Approximately 20 screws for the smaller, finer fixes.
- Angle Iron: 48 inches long, about 8-10 pieces to reinforce the edges and corners.
- Silicone Sealant: A tube to seal and protect from moisture.
- Liquid Nails: A tube for securing the rubber to the wood securely.
- Pitching Rubber and Surface:
- Rubber Matting: I opted for a 1/4” thick piece, cut to the specific dimensions of my mound’s top.
- Pitching Rubber: Standard 3-spike type, which you can find online or at any sporting goods store.
- Tools and Miscellaneous:
- Sandpaper
- Measuring Tape, Saw, and Drill
- Paint or Stain
The Right Tools for the Job
Here’s what I had in my toolbox to start this DIY pitching mound, and what you might need to either borrow or purchase:
- Basic Carpentry Tools:
- Circular Saw or Hand Saw: I used a circular saw for quicker, more accurate cuts.
- Power Drill: A must-have for assembling the mound.
- Measuring Tape: Accuracy is key, so a reliable measuring tape is indispensable.
- Level: To ensure your mound is perfectly horizontal and stable.
- Carpenter’s Square: To check the angles and ensure everything is squared and aligned.
- Specialty Tools:
- Sandpaper or a Power Sander: After cutting your wood, you’ll want to sand down rough edges to prevent splinters.
- Caulking Gun: For applying silicone sealant and liquid nails precisely and efficiently.
- Additional Helpful Tools:
- Clamps: These can help hold wood in place while you screw or glue pieces together.
- Staple Gun: If you're using fabric or netting as part of your mound, a staple gun can be handy.
- Utility Knife: For cutting rubber matting or making fine adjustments to materials.
- Safety Gear:
- Safety Glasses: Always protect your eyes when cutting wood or drilling.
- Work Gloves: To protect your hands from splinters and sharp objects.
- Ear Protection: If you’re using loud power tools, protecting your hearing is essential.
- Optional:
- Paintbrush or Roller: If you decide to paint or stain your mound, you’ll need the appropriate tools for applying these finishes.
Putting It All Together: A Step-by-Step Journey
1. Laying the Foundation
I began by laying out the three 2” x 10” x 10’ boards. Using my circular saw, I cut two of these boards to the length I’d decided on for the sides of the mound. Remember to account for an extra two inches on each side for the front cross support and the back wall.
One trick I found helpful was to mark my cutting lines with painter's tape to avoid splintering the wood. After cutting, I used sandpaper to smooth all edges, ensuring no rough patches could cause injuries later.
2. Sculpting the Slope
I measured and marked where the slope should start—approximately 2’1-1/2” from the back of the top platform. Then, I set my saw to the right angle and made the cut.
I also added a front cross support at the lowest point of the slope, which was about 1 1/2" high.
3. Assembling the Frame
To manage this, I laid out all the pieces on a flat surface and used clamps to hold them in place. Starting with the sides, I attached the front and back supports using the 2 1/2" deck screws.
Another tip is to pre-drill all screw holes to prevent the wood from splitting.
4. Rolling Out the Top
I took the 1/2” x 4’ x 2’ plywood piece and cut it to fit precisely within the frame, laying it on top of the slope. Securing this piece involved careful placement and lots of screws to ensure it wouldn’t shift during use.
I measured and cut the rubber matting to cover the plywood, leaving extra at the edges to tuck under. Using a combination of liquid nails and a caulking gun, I glued the rubber down, starting from one end and slowly working to the other to avoid air bubbles.
To finish, I drilled holes for the pitching rubber, ensuring they were aligned and spaced correctly for standard spikes. Once everything was in place, I applied a bead of silicone along the edges to seal the rubber and prevent moisture from getting under it.
The Final Touches
Here’s how I ensured my pitching mound would be a lasting addition to our training gear.
Sanding Everything Smooth
First off, I took the time to go over every inch of the wood with sandpaper. Sanding down the surfaces helps the sealant and paint adhere better and last longer. I used a medium-grit sandpaper for the initial pass and finished with a fine-grit for a smooth finish.
Applying a Weatherproof Sealant
The next step was sealing the wood to protect it from moisture and weather changes. I opted for a high-quality wood sealant that’s designed for outdoor use. Applying it generously over all the wood surfaces, I made sure to cover the ends and joints, where moisture is most likely to seep in.
It’s a good idea to apply at least two coats, letting each coat dry thoroughly.
Adding Protective Paint
Once the sealant was dry, I chose a durable outdoor paint in a dark green color that blends nicely with our backyard. Painting your mound not only adds a layer of protection but also gives it a professional look. Make sure to use a paint that’s suitable for outdoor conditions and apply two coats for best results.
Installing Additional Features
To make the mound more user-friendly, I added a few small features:
- Handle Cutouts: I cut handle slots on each side of the mound to make it easier to move.
- Rubber Feet: To prevent the mound from slipping during use, I attached rubber pads to the bottom.
Regular Maintenance Checks
Lastly, it’s important to maintain your mound. I check the mound periodically for any loose screws, potential water damage, or wear on the rubber top.
Wrapping It Up – Your Own DIY Pitching Mound for Under $200
Congrats! You’ve just built your very own DIY pitching mound for under $200—how awesome is that? Not only did you save money, but you also have a custom mound that’s perfectly tailored to your space and pitching needs.
Now, let’s talk about keeping that mound in tip-top shape. Over time, the rubber top might start to wear down from all those fastballs, so my advice is to check it regularly and reapply adhesive if needed. Also, if you’re storing the mound outside, consider covering it when it’s not in use to protect it from the elements.
if you notice any loosening in the screws or spikes, tighten them up right away. A quick check every few weeks will keep everything secure, and your mound will stay solid through all those practice sessions.
You’ve built something that’s going to help you improve your game—and saved a lot of cash in the process. Enjoy it, and happy pitching!